"The ramolade was a trifle tart, but the soufflé more than made up for it"

Authentic Rations for the Living Historian

When formed in the spring of 2000 the founders of the Lazy Jacks Mess laid down a set of principles on which to base the groups impression. One of those principles was that authentic rations would be used at all events which we attend. This article details the type of rations that the unit uses at events and the ways we go about cooking, eating and getting by 3 days on the same fayre as supplied to those boys in blue and grey 135 years ago.

The rations we take can be divided into two categories. The first category, Army issue supplied rations, represent the bulk of the contents of our haversacks, probably 80% whilst the second category that of foraged foods or goods supplied from home or purchased represent the remainder and are seen as more luxury items provided on a infrequent basis.

Army Issued Supplies

The components within this category can vary depending on the following factors;

1) Are we portraying Confederate or Union troops?

2) What theatre of the war are we serving in'?

3) What time of year is the scenario'?

4) What aspect of military life are we portraying?

When the four questions above have been answered then a small amount of research is required to come up with the rations likely to have been supplied to those troops and how they were prepared and cooked. For example if you were portraying Eastern Federal then the starch content of our diet would be issue hardtack biscuits rather than, say, corn bread which would be more suitable for a Confederate impression. Another example would be that if we were portraying Confederate troops as part of Jackson's expedition in the Shenandoah to Bath in January 1862 an addition to our diet would not be, say fresh plums, whilst if we were portraying Early's troops in the Gettysburg campaign in summer of 1863 then they would be in abundance. The quotes below are from soldiers accounts reprinted in historical accounts of campaigns and are what the historical re-enactor should be looking for when selecting food items for his haversack.

In a letter home from a private serving with Jubal Early during the valley campaign, August 1864

"We are drawing some of they prettiest flour I ever saw and good beef and we are getting some of they best apples you ever saw and some few peaches and milk .... I am in as good health as heart could wish for"

Lee's Miserables - J.Tracey Power p105

Union Captain John William de Forest wrote home during service at a camp near Thibodaux, Louisiana - November 1862

"When mealtime comes ... I seat myself on a log, or a pumpkin, and devour the richness of the land, for we forage here, we go without hardtack and salt horse for the present;, we live on roast pig, turkey, geese, chickens, beef and mutton, as for hoecake and sweet potatoes, they are nothing"

The life of Billy Yank - Bell Irvin Wiley p235

From Private Frank A Roberts serving with Company C 2nd Georgia Battalion Sharpshooters, whilst stationed around Dalton, Georgia Winter 1863/64

Sergeant Miller was an excellent cook and he could bake or roast our ration of beef to 'a turn', and believe me, it was good. At times we had potatoes, which were 'powerful' good with savoury gravy he made. Corn bread was our standby in that line. This was baked in a big old Dutch oven about fourteen inches in diameter, two bakings of three pones each being required at each of our three meals per day. We used liberally of the little Mexican red peppers for seasoning, which was a most healthy tonic for us. Occasionally bacon with some kind of green vegetable, varied our bill of fare.

Echoes of Battle - The Atlanta Campaign - Strayer & Baumgartner p16

Boiled potatoes were furnished us occasionally in settled camps. On the march we varied the programme by flying them. Onions in my own company at least, were a great rarity but appreciated when they did appear, they were pretty sure to appear on the Army table fried.

Hardtack and Coffee - John D.Billings - p138

He thought he would try the flying pan. He cut the hardtack into bits, put in some water and two or three slices of bacon, sifted over the mixture a little salt and pepper, and then gave it a thorough flying.

Corporal Si Klegg and his pard - Wilbur Hinman p201

A Soldier serving with the "Orphan Brigade' at camp Charity, Kentucky, September 1861

At Daylight, woke with the rain pattering down in my face. I broiled a piece of fat bacon on the end of a stick, and with a fragment of corn bread, made my breakfast.

Diary of a confederate Soldier - John S.Jackman p14

Basic Issue Items

Salt Pork: 2-3 pounds of belly pork heavily salted and cooked should form the basis of your 3 days supply. It is unlikely that it will be possible to salt and cook your pork at an event as this takes a certain amount of time spread over several days so this part of your rations will have to be prepared beforehand. I tend to soak my pork for 2-3 days in heavily salted water before drying it off and then rubbing liberal amounts of salt into the joint. I then cook the pork at a lowish temperature (180 degrees) for 2-3 hours depending on the size of the joint. The cooked meat after it has cooled down is then placed into a good quality canvas poke bag ready for the haversack. When prepared in this manner the meat should stay fresh for several days.

Salt Beef/Fresh Beef: Used as an alternative to pork. Care should be taken with fresh beef, probably best salted before the event to assist in preservation, especially in hot conditions.

Black Eyed Beans/Peas (field peas): A large handful kept in a poke bag should be enough for one person for a weekend event. We tend to collect an amount from each member of the mess and soak them in a boiler overnight before placing them on the fire to cook for breakfast. The flavour is generally enhanced by adding salt, pepper, pieces or pork and any event specific ingredients that we may happen upon such as onions, chilies etc.

Rice: This will usually replace the issue of beans. basically cooked the same way minus the requirement for overnight soaking.

Hardtack: Especially good for Union impression (Confederate impression if scenario permits use of captured rations) 6 to 9 of these should be enough for any man over the course of a weekend.

Corn Bread/Parched Corn: The Confederate staple, one hoe cake (approx. 8" diameter) should be an adequate ration per man. If parched corn is used as a substitute a small poke bag of this should suffice.

Corn Meal/Flour: When issued in this form troops tried as best to bake with whatever was near at hand. I have made a dough with corn meal and water and fried it in a canteen halve using pork fat - which worked and was surprisingly edible. Making small loafs by puffing the dough into corn cob husks and baking them in the ashes of a camp fire also works.

Coffee: For most Union impressions this should be readily in supply, for Confederate then a trade over the picket lines the previous night would account for this necessity appearing in your haversack. Supplied in bean form to be ground at the event, using the non aggressive end of a bayonet in a tin cup being one of the easiest methods.

Sugar: Again For most Union impressions this should be readily in supply, and to a lesser degree for Confederate. Molasses sugar works well.

Salt: Used for general food preparation and flavouring.

Occasional Items

The rations in this category are those that have either been foraged, supplied from home, purchased from Sutlers or recorded items of food that was distributed by the Army on an infrequent basis. As a result of this these rations tend to be very scenario specific. For example goods from home would not apply to a scenario depicting a campaign impression following several days of heavy marching/fighting, but would be appropriate to, say, a Dalton camp impression, during the winter of 1863/64. We tend to limit foods in this category to one or two items per man, someone unlucky enough may have none at all! but as everyone messes together then every one should get a little bit of the good life.

Sweet Potatoes: Used depending on season and theatre, can be added to the black eye bean "casserole", sliced and fried or left to cook in the ashes of the fire before being opened and the soft flesh scooped out. Can also be chopped and mixed with flour and fried in pork fat in the form of small cakes.

Onions: Small red variety is appropriate, a great addition to the beans or rice dish. Fried with sliced salt pork is especially good.

Fruit: Vary dependent on season and theatre so research and fill your haversack with these foraged delights; apples, plums, cherries blackberries, peaches, water melon all make welcome additions.

Dried Fruit: Not so dependent on season but ensure that there is recorded examples of that particular type of fruit being eaten in a dried state by troops. So no dried kumquats or sliced guava from the local health shop!

Goober Peas/Peanuts: So loved by the troops they wrote a song about them! These little fellers seem to get everywhere so are suitable for most impressions, they also can be used for making coffee! This is done by shelling the peanuts and placing the kernels into a canteen half and roasting them over the embers of a fire. Roast these for 5 minutes or so or until the nuts just start to go black then place then into a tin cup until cooled down. Next with the end of your bayonet grind the nuts as you would coffee grounds, add water and boil, this is best done for 10-15 minutes. Finally using a piece of sacking strain the contents into a cup and voila, substitute coffee. Give it a try, its certainly different and very correct for Confederate impressions.

Red Chilies: Available to some theatres and periods, an obvious method for spicing up bean and rice dishes.

Chocolate: Bought from Sutlers or sent as a gift from home, really best for Union rather than Confederate impression. Ensure that it comes in a period format so you will have to make this yourself, melt milk and dark chocolate together, essence of almond can be used for extra taste. Pour into an appropriate mould, and wrap with period wrapping when set, brown paper and string will surfice if the correct label is not available, can be eaten 'raw" or used to make a hot drink.

Whiskey: Although not encouraged by the military authorities of the time, whiskey and soldiers were hard to separate, and so a modicum of "bust head" may be allowed to find itself lodged in the recesses of the soldiers knapsack. Probably best used for medicinal purposes, adding it to coffee can give that required lift to thrice boiled coffee grounds!

From a letter by Sgt. James Williams, 21st Alabama Infantry

"There is only one thing I dislike in our position here that is the water is bad -- we will make it up into coffee and drink plenty of that -- and a little good whiskey added will keep us right."

Storing Rations

When you draw your 3 days rations and they are in the quantity specified by army regulations you will notice that there is only just enough room in your haversack to hold them, so its the end for all those haversack stuffers from Sutlers row and away into the knapsack where they belong. You will also notice that your haversack has become considerably heavy and together with a full canteen of water will add a considerable amount of weight onto your right shoulder. Bear this in mind when you pack your knapsack and arrange those traps for long periods of marching, try and balance out the load, having your cartridge box with made up rounds of the same quantity and weight as issued rounds will balance up the overall loading of the soldier but add extra weight. Store the rations in poke bags of a period construction and material, items such as pepper and salt can be stored in period containers.

Cooking Utensils

The scenario that is being portrayed will dictate the type of cooking utensils available. A winter camp impression lends itself to the use of heavier cooking equipment such as frying pans, cooking pots etc. and the messing on a larger scale, perhaps catering for company size units at one central location. Campaign impressions however requires a light weight alternative. When messing together a couple of tin muckets/boilers, a few tin cups for coffee and the odd canteen halve is adequate for most groups not forgetting the ubiquitous soldiers knife which serves a multiple of uses.

In Conclusion

As can be seen from the variety of available items the diet of the authentic re-enactor is not as dull or as unpalatable as many may have been led to believe. With a little bit of research and some organization within your mess or your pards, you will find that some reasonable results can be achieved within the confines of historical accuracy.

Broiling Steaks

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