QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE ON MEN'S ATTIRE IN THE 1860'S

Each category has a listing for these three typical situations:

  1. Working Clothes
  2. Everyday & Business Clothes
  3. Full Dress & Evening Wear

UNDERWEAR

  1. Stout muslin (cotton cloth) or flannel (soft woollen cloth)

  2. Stout to fine muslin or flannel (clean and not ragged)

  3. Finer muslin or flannel (cleaner)

SOCKS

  1. Cotton or wool
  2. Clean cotton or wool
  3. Clean cotton, wool, or silk

SHIRTS

  1. Anything but a fancy shirt, but of the correct pattern (placket front shirt), with or without collar (could even be a knit shirt or sweater.)
  2. Wool flannel, cotton, linen (solid, checked, plaid, striped) with attached or detachable collar.
  3. White starched front (pleated even fancier) with fine small buttons or studs and cuff buttons, stand-up or short falling detachable collar

TROUSERS

  1. Sturdy cloth; wool, cotton, linen or jean, with or without pocket(s) in front NOT rear.
  2. Wool, linen or blend; solid, tweed, or plaid; sometimes lighter or contrasting with coat; worn with frock coat; colours: black, navy or dark blue, dark brown (stripes along outer seam were similar to those of military trousers).
  3. Fine black wool broadcloth or wool sateen.

BRACES

  1. Worn if necessary, or with a belt over trousers (NO belt loops...loops only found on baseball trousers).
  2. Ordinary plain braces, but a nice quality pair preferred with a frock coat (can button to inside or outside or trousers.)
  3. Fine, embroidered (silk was very popular.)

WAISTCOATS

  1. Overshirt sometimes worn for heavy labour instead of a vest.
  2. Similar to or matching trousers, in wool or linen. Bottom edge straight, not pointed, with back made of black or brown polished cotton (See also Trousers for materials).
  3. Fine black wool or silk, or fancy white silk, (brocade or embroidered) with self-covered buttons on all types or pearl or fancy on white waistcoats.

NECKWEAR

  1. Neck cloth, cravat or very large bandanna (multicoloured).
  2. Solid or patterned dark colour, or striped; worn in a variety of knots, and also ascot, cravat, or stock. (silks or cotton).
  3. Black silk for most occasions, but a white silk Bow Tie for the Ballroom.

FOOTWEAR

  1. Sturdy shoes or boots, appropriate to the occupation and weather conditions.
  2. Boots, brogans, or elastic-sided shoes ("congress gaiters").
  3. Polished shoes or dancing pumps.

COATS

  1. Sack or short coat similar to vest and trousers, if worn depending on work to be done.
  2. Sack (considered informal) frock, paletot or overcoat (see also trousers for material).
  3. Tail coat or frock of fine black wool.

HEADWEAR

  1. Simple hat or cap appropriate to season, weather, and occupation.
  2. Fur or wool felt or silk hat, cloth mechanic's cap, straw hat (in season), plush top hat sometimes with frock coat (somewhat battered and rakish)
  3. Fine beaver or beaver/silk (out of fashion, but often handed down to men in the family) and silk top hat

OUTERWEAR

  1. Seasonal -- scarp of canvas, oil cloth, overcoat, cape, shawl, greatcoat, cloak, raincoat, mittens and gloves.
  2. Seasonal -- oil cloth, overcoat, cape, shawl, greatcoat, cloak, raincoat, mittens and gloves.
  3. Seasonal -- overcoat, cape, shawl, greatcoat, cloak, raincoat, mittens, and gloves.

ACCESSORIES

  1. Shop apron or smock, little or no jewellery, perhaps just timepiece, handkerchief (about 18 inches square) and any tools of the trade.
  2. Simple Jewellery including watch chain and fob, cuff buttons, mourning or organisational jewellery, umbrella, walking stick, valise or carpet bag when travelling, small notebook and pencil, hard rubber comb, and leather or cotton gloves.
  3. Braided hair watch chain, fob, fancy jewellery or pin, shirt studs, gloves and walking stick.

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